kenoathtravels.com - flores
Just go . . .
With more than 17,000 islands dotting the Indonesian archipelago there is more than enough scenery to last a lifetime . . . and more.
Decisions, decisions on where to go and what to see.
But in 2009 I decided to explore the island of Flores, the so called 'Cradle of Mankind' and famous for its recently discovered tiny Flores Man (better known as 'The Hobbit' [not to be confused with Johnny Howard]).
Accompanying me on this journey would be Ray and Jim.
I have known Ray for years now and had travelled with him around Bali a couple of times. Jim, I had only met with his wife on a flight from KL to the Gold Coast a year or two previous. When Jim heard that I was going to Flores he got very excited and asked if he could join the trip. What the hell, why not, I thought.
Ray on the other hand had always wanted to go to Flores so it was a great opportunity for him to head over with someone else for company and shared expenses, etc.
So it was on . . . I had done all the research, got the maps, info and made up a 'green bible of Flores' . . . and we were off.
We all arrived and met in Bali separately over the period of a week before we were to head to Flores.
What was in store for us, how Jurassic was this place, did the Hobbit really exist and did it run with a limp? Read on . . .
March 9 2009
Ray, Jim and I headed to Bali domestic terminal to board the plane to Meurme which is situated on the east coast of Flores to start our adventure.
Walking across the steamy tarmac we boarded a Fokker 100 jet. We thought we were flying direct to Meurme on the Eastern side of Flores . . . what we thought and what happened were two entirely different things.
We were on the 'milk run'.
The flight was from Bali to Timor via Waingapu in Sumba, and then Meurme in Flores.
After a reasonably good takeoff from Bali, and a smooth flight, we attempted our first landing . . . I think the pilots' instruments were off by about 2 metres below ground level as we came down with a thud on a skinny little landing strip.
The next landing was much better (only 1 metre below ground level).
After alighting from our plane we were enthusiastically greeted by the usual hordes of blokes offering all manner of transport and accommodation.
But, as luck would have it, we got a bloke who took us to the hotel that I had already chosen from the Lonely Planet (LP), the Gardenia Hotel.
The drive to our hotel was loud (not the van, the stereo).
I think all people living in Flores are deaf as they have to have the music up to the max.
Maybe it is to aid concentration or it could have something to do with taking their mind off the sheer cliff falls that their skinny roads drive on top of.
We arrived at the Gardenia and across the road was a little shanty type 'shop' which sold all manner of consumable items, and it was pumping out the obligatory loud music.
Not unlike Maningrida, as Ray observed.
110,000 rp for a room with a bed, fan, toilet, cold water and a large mirror on the wall. The Ritz it was not, but all right for this neck of the woods.
After throwing our gear into our rooms we strolled into the 'town' to get our first taste of Flores. It was like walking through downtown Beurit. The buildings were old, paint peeling off them all and the roads looked like they had just been blown up by landmines.
Then there were the bemos. Everywhere. With people clinging by their fingernails to the doors, windows and on the roof with, of course, loud blaring music.
It was like a competition with everyone trying to out do each other. All the bemos were brightly coloured with pictures of Jesus and Saints on the back windows with slogans like 'Jesus saves', 'I am the Light' and 'Follow me and you will not be lost'.
I guess we were in Flores which is predominantly Catholic, and you do need divine intervention with the traffic and roads.
After strolling around a bit we headed to a LP recommended restaurant called the Golden Fish. Here we relaxed and had a few Bintangs and eventually a feed.
There were huge tanks of fish and one tank had the biggest lobster I have ever seen out of the ocean, it was a monster, but at 100,000 rp a kilo we declined as it would have probably weighed around 40 kilos and you would have to pay for the lot. Plus we weren't that hungry.
We watched the sunset and ate dinner, and then in the dark, and with the help of the 'green bible', we navigated our way back to our hotel.
Had a couple of tepid beers (refrigeration is not a priority around here) and chatted to some staff.
We organised a car for the next day to get us to Moni and 120,000 rp each was agreed upon.
The Bintangs were working and after heading to their rooms everyone was snoring away in no time.
March 10 2009
Next morning, and after a nice bracing cold shower, we had an exotic breakfast of tea and bread.
No chance of sleeping in as the 'store' across the road started to belt out tunes at around 100 decibels per speaker.
The car arrived to pick us up and to our surprise there were others on board, a Dutch couple, which were to go to Moni with us.
So much for ordering a car solely for ourselves, but you get use to that travelling around Indonesia.
We said our goodbyes and off we went.
After only going a couple of kilometres up the road we pulled in to get fuel at the local servo.
But as we were waiting a little bloke hopped in the car.
We asked what that was all about and the driver said that he was only going up the road.
Not even 500m up the road we stopped and another little bloke got in, of course by this time we were packed to the rafters.
Ray said f*#k this, and we told them to get out, the driver didn't know what was going on (obviously he was trying to get a bit of extra money for himself).
After the two blokes got forced out of the car Ray told the driver to go back to the hotel.
We saw the guy who organised our ride and Ray told him to tell the driver that he was not to pick up anyone else on the way to Moni.
Off we went again and we drove past many disappointed punters who were after a lift. We did not stop for them.
It was a very uneventful trip but it was our first real look at what the Flores countryside looked like.
We hugged the coast and then headed inland, up and over huge mountains. The terrain was green, green and more green.
We arrived in Moni around 1pm and the Dutch couple had a look at some out of the way huts and decided to stay there.
We stopped at a hotel that was recommended in the LP and at only 100,000 rp, but I don't think the manager was around and the little bloke who was there wanted to make a bit of money and told us that it was 300,000 rp a night . . . f*#k that we said and headed off to the next LP recommended hotel.
At 75,000 rp a night it was OK, with mozzie nets, cold water and a large mirror on the wall.
We organised an early morning ride to Lake Kelimutu, the three coloured lakes, and a German lady staying at the hotel asked if she could join us, so the four of us were set for next morning.
By now, being lunchtime, we headed for a feed across the road. Just made it to the restaurant when a huge rainstorm came down. After sampling the local fare we headed to a waterfall which was pretty average to say the least, but it was cool and a respite from the humidity.
Dinner was had at the café again were a few tepid Bintangs were enjoyed and then an early night before our 4am journey to the lakes.
As for our luxurious bathroom facilities, a waterpipe had burst in the town so we had no water except what was in the mozzie infested bucket.
March 11 2009
Lake Kelimutu, the three coloured lakes, is a volcano, close to the town of Moni in central Flores Island containing three summit crater lakes of varying colors. The lake is situated at an altitude of 1631 metres. The scenic three lakes are a very popular tourist destination and also of interest to geologists because the three lakes are different colours yet reside at the crest of the same volcano.
We were here, and we were going to see it.
4am cold water wash and off to the three coloured lakes.
The four of us got picked up and headed up to the lakes, stopped at the checkpoint and paid the entrance fee and kept going until we reached a carpark.
Coffee and teas were being dished out to warm us up. Then we headed up the well marked concrete track to the lookout. It was still dark when we got there with just a hint of light in the horizon. On the way up it was awesome in the darkness as more people joined us for the climb. In the still of the morning the quiet was broken as Jim was discussing dental hygiene in Queensland to someone. I suddenly said, shoosh, what was that. Jim said 'I don't know, it's all quiet', I said 'yes, exactly'.
He still babbled on as we made it to the summit.
Took lots of photos as the sunrise started to happen.
Huge amounts of mist rolled in as the clicking of cameras filled the air. It was quite a special sight and it was so calm, still and quiet, well at least when someone happened to shut up.
With the sun well and truly up we made our descent and arrived back to the carpark where we caught up with the Dutch couple from the day before who had hired a motorbike for the morning but had only just arrived missing out on the sunrise.
We were going to walk back to Moni, and while waiting at the carpark there was some old bugger wanting to charge us 100,000 rp each to accompany us on the track back down.
Our driver got the shits with him and drove us half way down, where we got out and walked through villages and along skinny goat tracks to the waterfall where we had been the day before, and then back to our Moni hotel.
There we celebrated our feat with Bintangs. It was around 10am by then, and we had a breakfast of fruit and pancake, yummy.
We decided to get out of dodge and asked if we could get a car to Ende.
The price was something ridiculous so we decided to catch a bus. We booked out of the hotel and with all our gear in tow headed up to the street to wave down a bus. Only took about 30 minutes and we were in a packed and noisy bus heading to Ende.
We arrived at Ende bus station and were set upon by hordes of spruikers getting us to jump in their bemo and to the hotel of their choice.
Every bemo was blaring out loud music (again) and when we got into ours the guy leant over the front seat. I thought he was going to turn the music down but he turned the bastard up!
We found our LP hotel and settled settled in. Another luxurious room with bare bones amenities complete with glorious cold showers and a huge mirror on the wall.
We went for a walk to a Government run tourist information centre and soon realised that not much English had been spoken there for about 400 years, but we were all offered a chair to sit on. Got a few maps of the area and some limited information about the town.
We then headed to the shoreline which was full of so much crap that it was hard to actually see the sand underneath it all.
Found a little warung that sold reasonable food and as usual the warm beer. They just don't have any concept of refrigeration in this part of the woods.
Had a bit of a look around, not much to see, and went back to our hotel and organised a minibus to Ruteng the next day. We met the boss of the transport and it was all organised for an 8am start in the morning. Went back to the little warung for dinner, and surprise, surprise, warm drinks all round. Got back to the hotel and had a few COLD beers, then an early night in preparation for our adventures next day.
March 12 2009
Up early and packed the bags after a nice invigorating cold shower. Had breakfast and paid the bill just as the minibus arrived to pick us up. We headed to Rutung through some magnificent countryside, roads had seen better days though, while the driver was trying to do some world land speed records, but all in all wasn't too bad.
We arrived in Ruteng and stayed at the LP hotel, and yes, it does look like a Swiss Chalet (see pic). Booked in, Ray and I shared, Jimmy one room on his own.
Had a couple of beers and relaxed. Ray and I went for a walk to find an ATM and we were accompanied by three young blokes who reckon they were practicing their English on us. I think they were more interested in the camera I was carrying.
Went for a walk into the 'town' which can only be described as a shithole.
Ray had to get back to the hotel quick smart so took a motorbike (Ray had had the dreaded lugie for about a week by now and was feeling crook all the time). I walked back to the hotel and was accosted by the three again until I caught Ray coming back into town, we lost the three by going into a café.
Well, we sat there for about 10 minutes and no-one came anywhere near us, couple of smartarses in the room started laughing, we f#*ked off back to the hotel where we were able to order a meal, by this time Jimmy had caught up with us, don't know where he finished up.
We organised a car to Labaubajo the next day. Couple more beers and early night again.
MARCH 13 2009
After an invigorating cold shower, and a quick breakfast, our car arrived to head to Labaubajo.
Took lots of photos enroute and Ray set up the video camera to get footage on the way.
We arrived Labaubajo in mid afternoon and booked into the LP hotel where we had a couple of cold beers.
Walked down to the wharf to check the place out, shanty shacks all along the foreshore, but at least you could see the sand.
We organised a boat trip to Rinca in Komodo National Park for following day. More beers and a feed at our hotel. Relatively early night and a wedding being celebrated across on the pier spewed out loud music into the night.
MARCH 14 2009
Lovely cold shower and down to the wharf to jump onto our boat.
Beautiful trip to Rinca where we got off and paid US$19 + + to get to see the Komodo Dragons.
While we were paying our fees Jimmy tried to use his Queensland Senior Citizens Card, the girl looked blankly at it . . . it might as well have had 'I EAT SNOT' written on it . . . Jimmy did not get a discount.
With a guide and another group we headed off to see the dragons. Saw about half a dozen of them lazily lying around the cook house, saw nothing during our walk through the scrub, just some old buffalo and some dragon nests where they lay their eggs.
Got back to a drink stall where we had a warm beer.
On the way back we stopped for a snorkel, first stop Jimmy nearly got dragged out to sea, the rip was unreal. We moved to a safer spot closer to an island and we all had a swim and a snorkel, it was great.
Got back to Labaubajo about 3.30pm and we all agreed it had been a great day.
That evening we went up to the restaurant at our hotel and had a feed and many big bintangs!! Early night!!
MARCH 15 2009
Next day, and after a beautiful cold shower, we packed up and headed to the wharf to get the ferry to Sumbawa.
Walked to the ticket office and there was a full on marching band and police there, they didn't have to go to all that trouble just for us, I thought.
Some Indonesian pollie was getting off the ferry, it was the lead up to the Indonesian election in April and the rent a crowd was there for support.
Eventually got onto the ferry and off we went for our eight hour sea journey.
I slept on the checkerboard deck most of the way . . . I can sleep anywhere!
Got off at Sumbawa and jumped onto a bemo to Bima where we boarded an overnight bus to the west coast of Sumbawa, eleven hours away.
A crazy night time bus trip . . . driver was obviously mad and loved speeding. I had to laugh when Jim said that he was going to go and ask the driver to slow down. I reckon this request would have made him speed up!
As a lot of the passengers were getting white knuckles and hanging onto their seats I was snoring away oblivious to what was going on around me. Ray and Jim just shook their heads at me.
We arrived to catch a ferry to Lombok, which took about 2½ hours, and then the bus continued to Mataram where we got in a blue taxi to Sengiggi Beach and the Lena Hotel.
Looked at a few other hotels but bloody expensive and not worth the prices they were asking for.
Lena's only cost 75,000 rp a night, complete with airconditioning and wonderful cold shower, but the toilet at least had a seat on it.
We all just swam in the sea and generally relaxed all day.
Caught up with my Indonesian friend Eppoel that night and organised a trip to the schools next day for a talk.
Last time I was in Lombok on my 50th birthday Eppoel, who is a school teacher, wanted me to visit his school. I finished up conducting a talk and handing out some maps and information on Australia that I had brought along. It was a hoot, but, I finished up visiting 5 schools, so it was a full day. Anyhow, I will never forget my 50th.
MARCH 16 2009
Wonderful cold shower, breakfast and off on the back of Eppoel's motorbike for one hour before we got to the school. Met up with his cousin Mif and did a talk. Went next door to Eppoel's school and met the headmaster and other trainers. Afterwards went to Mif's village and was invited to his house for lunch, very special indeed.
After we hopped in Mif's Suzuki 4WD and went to Eppoel's village where he changed and prayed.
Then for something different we headed to the newly constructed Lombok international airport and drove along the tarmac, I think I was the first Australian to walk on the runway!
Headed back to Sengiggi where we had a few cool drinks and met up with Ray and Jimmy.
Ray and I went to the Rinjani Bar and had a few grogs. Met up with the boys around tea time and they went off and met up with a few mates of theirs.
Another early night (Ray still crook).
MARCH 17 2009
Accompanied by our luggage we jammed ourselves inside the Suzuki Swift with Mif and Eppoel who drove us to Lembar Harbour to catch the ferry to Bali.
Tight squeeze but no use complaining as they did drive us there gratis.
After cruising along the Lombok Strait for 4½ hours we were picked up by Aldi and we drove to the New Arena where we got three superior rooms up the front of the hotel, less noisy than around the pool, at 200,000 rp a night.
And we even had a hot shower and a fridge, but alas, no big mirrors!
For the next five days we all just chilled out in Bali and went our separate ways eventually returning to Australia.
All in all the trip to Flores was an eye opener. We did not see all of Flores, you would have to go there for a month or two to do that. We just hugged the bottom south coast of Flores going from East to West.
There is little infrastructure on the island and it is not tooled up for tourists yet. It has potential so now would be a good time to go and see it before it gets swarmed with tourists in the future.
Prices for everything are cheap but again this will change once the word gets out and its potential is realised.
The scenery is stunning and Komodo National Park and the three lakes volcano were the standout and the main reason why we went there in the first place.
Roads are very poor, washed out and very scary, as you look down 2000+ metre drops outside your vehicles window all while your driver tries to keep steady on what little bitumen remains on these windy roads.
Drivers are a little bit to be desired as they think they are being pursued by Mark Webber so have to go that little bit faster all the time. But I must admit they do have that air of skill as they navigate their way across the island, or is that just fear and luck I can smell?
I still do not know why every hotel room we stayed at throughout Flores had such a bloody big mirror? This is just one of the mysteries of life.
If you want to go to Flores I thoroughly recommend it as the rugged terrain has probably not altered in thousands of years . . . it all reminded me of Jurassic Park.
But don't forget the earplugs . . . those bemos can be deafening!
And no . . . I still don't know if the Hobbit runs with a limp . . .
Just go . . .
Decisions, decisions on where to go and what to see.
But in 2009 I decided to explore the island of Flores, the so called 'Cradle of Mankind' and famous for its recently discovered tiny Flores Man (better known as 'The Hobbit' [not to be confused with Johnny Howard]).
Accompanying me on this journey would be Ray and Jim.
I have known Ray for years now and had travelled with him around Bali a couple of times. Jim, I had only met with his wife on a flight from KL to the Gold Coast a year or two previous. When Jim heard that I was going to Flores he got very excited and asked if he could join the trip. What the hell, why not, I thought.
Ray on the other hand had always wanted to go to Flores so it was a great opportunity for him to head over with someone else for company and shared expenses, etc.
So it was on . . . I had done all the research, got the maps, info and made up a 'green bible of Flores' . . . and we were off.
We all arrived and met in Bali separately over the period of a week before we were to head to Flores.
What was in store for us, how Jurassic was this place, did the Hobbit really exist and did it run with a limp? Read on . . .
March 9 2009
Ray, Jim and I headed to Bali domestic terminal to board the plane to Meurme which is situated on the east coast of Flores to start our adventure.
Walking across the steamy tarmac we boarded a Fokker 100 jet. We thought we were flying direct to Meurme on the Eastern side of Flores . . . what we thought and what happened were two entirely different things.
We were on the 'milk run'.
The flight was from Bali to Timor via Waingapu in Sumba, and then Meurme in Flores.
After a reasonably good takeoff from Bali, and a smooth flight, we attempted our first landing . . . I think the pilots' instruments were off by about 2 metres below ground level as we came down with a thud on a skinny little landing strip.
The next landing was much better (only 1 metre below ground level).
After alighting from our plane we were enthusiastically greeted by the usual hordes of blokes offering all manner of transport and accommodation.
But, as luck would have it, we got a bloke who took us to the hotel that I had already chosen from the Lonely Planet (LP), the Gardenia Hotel.
The drive to our hotel was loud (not the van, the stereo).
I think all people living in Flores are deaf as they have to have the music up to the max.
Maybe it is to aid concentration or it could have something to do with taking their mind off the sheer cliff falls that their skinny roads drive on top of.
We arrived at the Gardenia and across the road was a little shanty type 'shop' which sold all manner of consumable items, and it was pumping out the obligatory loud music.
Not unlike Maningrida, as Ray observed.
110,000 rp for a room with a bed, fan, toilet, cold water and a large mirror on the wall. The Ritz it was not, but all right for this neck of the woods.
After throwing our gear into our rooms we strolled into the 'town' to get our first taste of Flores. It was like walking through downtown Beurit. The buildings were old, paint peeling off them all and the roads looked like they had just been blown up by landmines.
Then there were the bemos. Everywhere. With people clinging by their fingernails to the doors, windows and on the roof with, of course, loud blaring music.
It was like a competition with everyone trying to out do each other. All the bemos were brightly coloured with pictures of Jesus and Saints on the back windows with slogans like 'Jesus saves', 'I am the Light' and 'Follow me and you will not be lost'.
I guess we were in Flores which is predominantly Catholic, and you do need divine intervention with the traffic and roads.
After strolling around a bit we headed to a LP recommended restaurant called the Golden Fish. Here we relaxed and had a few Bintangs and eventually a feed.
There were huge tanks of fish and one tank had the biggest lobster I have ever seen out of the ocean, it was a monster, but at 100,000 rp a kilo we declined as it would have probably weighed around 40 kilos and you would have to pay for the lot. Plus we weren't that hungry.
We watched the sunset and ate dinner, and then in the dark, and with the help of the 'green bible', we navigated our way back to our hotel.
Had a couple of tepid beers (refrigeration is not a priority around here) and chatted to some staff.
We organised a car for the next day to get us to Moni and 120,000 rp each was agreed upon.
The Bintangs were working and after heading to their rooms everyone was snoring away in no time.
March 10 2009
Next morning, and after a nice bracing cold shower, we had an exotic breakfast of tea and bread.
No chance of sleeping in as the 'store' across the road started to belt out tunes at around 100 decibels per speaker.
The car arrived to pick us up and to our surprise there were others on board, a Dutch couple, which were to go to Moni with us.
So much for ordering a car solely for ourselves, but you get use to that travelling around Indonesia.
We said our goodbyes and off we went.
After only going a couple of kilometres up the road we pulled in to get fuel at the local servo.
But as we were waiting a little bloke hopped in the car.
We asked what that was all about and the driver said that he was only going up the road.
Not even 500m up the road we stopped and another little bloke got in, of course by this time we were packed to the rafters.
Ray said f*#k this, and we told them to get out, the driver didn't know what was going on (obviously he was trying to get a bit of extra money for himself).
After the two blokes got forced out of the car Ray told the driver to go back to the hotel.
We saw the guy who organised our ride and Ray told him to tell the driver that he was not to pick up anyone else on the way to Moni.
Off we went again and we drove past many disappointed punters who were after a lift. We did not stop for them.
It was a very uneventful trip but it was our first real look at what the Flores countryside looked like.
We hugged the coast and then headed inland, up and over huge mountains. The terrain was green, green and more green.
We arrived in Moni around 1pm and the Dutch couple had a look at some out of the way huts and decided to stay there.
We stopped at a hotel that was recommended in the LP and at only 100,000 rp, but I don't think the manager was around and the little bloke who was there wanted to make a bit of money and told us that it was 300,000 rp a night . . . f*#k that we said and headed off to the next LP recommended hotel.
At 75,000 rp a night it was OK, with mozzie nets, cold water and a large mirror on the wall.
We organised an early morning ride to Lake Kelimutu, the three coloured lakes, and a German lady staying at the hotel asked if she could join us, so the four of us were set for next morning.
By now, being lunchtime, we headed for a feed across the road. Just made it to the restaurant when a huge rainstorm came down. After sampling the local fare we headed to a waterfall which was pretty average to say the least, but it was cool and a respite from the humidity.
Dinner was had at the café again were a few tepid Bintangs were enjoyed and then an early night before our 4am journey to the lakes.
As for our luxurious bathroom facilities, a waterpipe had burst in the town so we had no water except what was in the mozzie infested bucket.
March 11 2009
Lake Kelimutu, the three coloured lakes, is a volcano, close to the town of Moni in central Flores Island containing three summit crater lakes of varying colors. The lake is situated at an altitude of 1631 metres. The scenic three lakes are a very popular tourist destination and also of interest to geologists because the three lakes are different colours yet reside at the crest of the same volcano.
We were here, and we were going to see it.
4am cold water wash and off to the three coloured lakes.
The four of us got picked up and headed up to the lakes, stopped at the checkpoint and paid the entrance fee and kept going until we reached a carpark.
Coffee and teas were being dished out to warm us up. Then we headed up the well marked concrete track to the lookout. It was still dark when we got there with just a hint of light in the horizon. On the way up it was awesome in the darkness as more people joined us for the climb. In the still of the morning the quiet was broken as Jim was discussing dental hygiene in Queensland to someone. I suddenly said, shoosh, what was that. Jim said 'I don't know, it's all quiet', I said 'yes, exactly'.
He still babbled on as we made it to the summit.
Took lots of photos as the sunrise started to happen.
Huge amounts of mist rolled in as the clicking of cameras filled the air. It was quite a special sight and it was so calm, still and quiet, well at least when someone happened to shut up.
With the sun well and truly up we made our descent and arrived back to the carpark where we caught up with the Dutch couple from the day before who had hired a motorbike for the morning but had only just arrived missing out on the sunrise.
We were going to walk back to Moni, and while waiting at the carpark there was some old bugger wanting to charge us 100,000 rp each to accompany us on the track back down.
Our driver got the shits with him and drove us half way down, where we got out and walked through villages and along skinny goat tracks to the waterfall where we had been the day before, and then back to our Moni hotel.
There we celebrated our feat with Bintangs. It was around 10am by then, and we had a breakfast of fruit and pancake, yummy.
We decided to get out of dodge and asked if we could get a car to Ende.
The price was something ridiculous so we decided to catch a bus. We booked out of the hotel and with all our gear in tow headed up to the street to wave down a bus. Only took about 30 minutes and we were in a packed and noisy bus heading to Ende.
We arrived at Ende bus station and were set upon by hordes of spruikers getting us to jump in their bemo and to the hotel of their choice.
Every bemo was blaring out loud music (again) and when we got into ours the guy leant over the front seat. I thought he was going to turn the music down but he turned the bastard up!
We found our LP hotel and settled settled in. Another luxurious room with bare bones amenities complete with glorious cold showers and a huge mirror on the wall.
We went for a walk to a Government run tourist information centre and soon realised that not much English had been spoken there for about 400 years, but we were all offered a chair to sit on. Got a few maps of the area and some limited information about the town.
We then headed to the shoreline which was full of so much crap that it was hard to actually see the sand underneath it all.
Found a little warung that sold reasonable food and as usual the warm beer. They just don't have any concept of refrigeration in this part of the woods.
Had a bit of a look around, not much to see, and went back to our hotel and organised a minibus to Ruteng the next day. We met the boss of the transport and it was all organised for an 8am start in the morning. Went back to the little warung for dinner, and surprise, surprise, warm drinks all round. Got back to the hotel and had a few COLD beers, then an early night in preparation for our adventures next day.
March 12 2009
Up early and packed the bags after a nice invigorating cold shower. Had breakfast and paid the bill just as the minibus arrived to pick us up. We headed to Rutung through some magnificent countryside, roads had seen better days though, while the driver was trying to do some world land speed records, but all in all wasn't too bad.
We arrived in Ruteng and stayed at the LP hotel, and yes, it does look like a Swiss Chalet (see pic). Booked in, Ray and I shared, Jimmy one room on his own.
Had a couple of beers and relaxed. Ray and I went for a walk to find an ATM and we were accompanied by three young blokes who reckon they were practicing their English on us. I think they were more interested in the camera I was carrying.
Went for a walk into the 'town' which can only be described as a shithole.
Ray had to get back to the hotel quick smart so took a motorbike (Ray had had the dreaded lugie for about a week by now and was feeling crook all the time). I walked back to the hotel and was accosted by the three again until I caught Ray coming back into town, we lost the three by going into a café.
Well, we sat there for about 10 minutes and no-one came anywhere near us, couple of smartarses in the room started laughing, we f#*ked off back to the hotel where we were able to order a meal, by this time Jimmy had caught up with us, don't know where he finished up.
We organised a car to Labaubajo the next day. Couple more beers and early night again.
MARCH 13 2009
After an invigorating cold shower, and a quick breakfast, our car arrived to head to Labaubajo.
Took lots of photos enroute and Ray set up the video camera to get footage on the way.
We arrived Labaubajo in mid afternoon and booked into the LP hotel where we had a couple of cold beers.
Walked down to the wharf to check the place out, shanty shacks all along the foreshore, but at least you could see the sand.
We organised a boat trip to Rinca in Komodo National Park for following day. More beers and a feed at our hotel. Relatively early night and a wedding being celebrated across on the pier spewed out loud music into the night.
MARCH 14 2009
Lovely cold shower and down to the wharf to jump onto our boat.
Beautiful trip to Rinca where we got off and paid US$19 + + to get to see the Komodo Dragons.
While we were paying our fees Jimmy tried to use his Queensland Senior Citizens Card, the girl looked blankly at it . . . it might as well have had 'I EAT SNOT' written on it . . . Jimmy did not get a discount.
With a guide and another group we headed off to see the dragons. Saw about half a dozen of them lazily lying around the cook house, saw nothing during our walk through the scrub, just some old buffalo and some dragon nests where they lay their eggs.
Got back to a drink stall where we had a warm beer.
On the way back we stopped for a snorkel, first stop Jimmy nearly got dragged out to sea, the rip was unreal. We moved to a safer spot closer to an island and we all had a swim and a snorkel, it was great.
Got back to Labaubajo about 3.30pm and we all agreed it had been a great day.
That evening we went up to the restaurant at our hotel and had a feed and many big bintangs!! Early night!!
MARCH 15 2009
Next day, and after a beautiful cold shower, we packed up and headed to the wharf to get the ferry to Sumbawa.
Walked to the ticket office and there was a full on marching band and police there, they didn't have to go to all that trouble just for us, I thought.
Some Indonesian pollie was getting off the ferry, it was the lead up to the Indonesian election in April and the rent a crowd was there for support.
Eventually got onto the ferry and off we went for our eight hour sea journey.
I slept on the checkerboard deck most of the way . . . I can sleep anywhere!
Got off at Sumbawa and jumped onto a bemo to Bima where we boarded an overnight bus to the west coast of Sumbawa, eleven hours away.
A crazy night time bus trip . . . driver was obviously mad and loved speeding. I had to laugh when Jim said that he was going to go and ask the driver to slow down. I reckon this request would have made him speed up!
As a lot of the passengers were getting white knuckles and hanging onto their seats I was snoring away oblivious to what was going on around me. Ray and Jim just shook their heads at me.
We arrived to catch a ferry to Lombok, which took about 2½ hours, and then the bus continued to Mataram where we got in a blue taxi to Sengiggi Beach and the Lena Hotel.
Looked at a few other hotels but bloody expensive and not worth the prices they were asking for.
Lena's only cost 75,000 rp a night, complete with airconditioning and wonderful cold shower, but the toilet at least had a seat on it.
We all just swam in the sea and generally relaxed all day.
Caught up with my Indonesian friend Eppoel that night and organised a trip to the schools next day for a talk.
Last time I was in Lombok on my 50th birthday Eppoel, who is a school teacher, wanted me to visit his school. I finished up conducting a talk and handing out some maps and information on Australia that I had brought along. It was a hoot, but, I finished up visiting 5 schools, so it was a full day. Anyhow, I will never forget my 50th.
MARCH 16 2009
Wonderful cold shower, breakfast and off on the back of Eppoel's motorbike for one hour before we got to the school. Met up with his cousin Mif and did a talk. Went next door to Eppoel's school and met the headmaster and other trainers. Afterwards went to Mif's village and was invited to his house for lunch, very special indeed.
After we hopped in Mif's Suzuki 4WD and went to Eppoel's village where he changed and prayed.
Then for something different we headed to the newly constructed Lombok international airport and drove along the tarmac, I think I was the first Australian to walk on the runway!
Headed back to Sengiggi where we had a few cool drinks and met up with Ray and Jimmy.
Ray and I went to the Rinjani Bar and had a few grogs. Met up with the boys around tea time and they went off and met up with a few mates of theirs.
Another early night (Ray still crook).
MARCH 17 2009
Accompanied by our luggage we jammed ourselves inside the Suzuki Swift with Mif and Eppoel who drove us to Lembar Harbour to catch the ferry to Bali.
Tight squeeze but no use complaining as they did drive us there gratis.
After cruising along the Lombok Strait for 4½ hours we were picked up by Aldi and we drove to the New Arena where we got three superior rooms up the front of the hotel, less noisy than around the pool, at 200,000 rp a night.
And we even had a hot shower and a fridge, but alas, no big mirrors!
For the next five days we all just chilled out in Bali and went our separate ways eventually returning to Australia.
All in all the trip to Flores was an eye opener. We did not see all of Flores, you would have to go there for a month or two to do that. We just hugged the bottom south coast of Flores going from East to West.
There is little infrastructure on the island and it is not tooled up for tourists yet. It has potential so now would be a good time to go and see it before it gets swarmed with tourists in the future.
Prices for everything are cheap but again this will change once the word gets out and its potential is realised.
The scenery is stunning and Komodo National Park and the three lakes volcano were the standout and the main reason why we went there in the first place.
Roads are very poor, washed out and very scary, as you look down 2000+ metre drops outside your vehicles window all while your driver tries to keep steady on what little bitumen remains on these windy roads.
Drivers are a little bit to be desired as they think they are being pursued by Mark Webber so have to go that little bit faster all the time. But I must admit they do have that air of skill as they navigate their way across the island, or is that just fear and luck I can smell?
I still do not know why every hotel room we stayed at throughout Flores had such a bloody big mirror? This is just one of the mysteries of life.
If you want to go to Flores I thoroughly recommend it as the rugged terrain has probably not altered in thousands of years . . . it all reminded me of Jurassic Park.
But don't forget the earplugs . . . those bemos can be deafening!
And no . . . I still don't know if the Hobbit runs with a limp . . .
Just go . . .
Bare bones accommodation in Meurme, complete with the obligitary large mirror.
Wandering the picturesque streets of Meurme.
The Meurme town square roundabout . . . and what's with that oversized can of soup on the top of that pole?
The local milkbar across the road from our hotel in Meurme . . . just add loud music for effect.
Cruising the coast of Flores and heading west.
Nothing stops locals from getting to where they are going.
Public toilets in Moni . . . luxury!
Our exotic hotel in Moni . . . Sheraton eat your heart out.
Booking in to our exotic hotel in Moni at reception.
Local cafe in Moni.
Part of the 3 lakes craters in Flores.
What the hell is a Swiss Chalet doing in Rutung, Flores?
A gap in a bridge but what went through the gap?
Heading to Labaubajo west Flores.
Roadworks Flores style.
Just arrived in Labaubajo and time for a beer.